Unmatched quality makes Simpson & Simpson your solution for all your paving needs
Protect your investment with a seal coat
Simpson & Simpson, Inc. has been a family operated, full service paving company for over 60 years. Nobody knows better than we do that your asphalt roadway or parking lot was a costly, time consuming investment that you would like to preserve as long as possible.
We can provide the proper maintenance that could double the life of your asphalt pavement! Our quality seal coat will protect your asphalt from damaging factors and provide the new black appearance that adds eye-catching curb appeal.
We can work with our customers to determine the optimum maintenance schedule for their surface. Two critical elements in a maintenance plan are preventing water from penetrating into the base and subgrade by regularly sealing cracks and applying seal coat on a three to five year cycle. A seal coat provides a durable barrier that offers protection from the elements and fuel/oil leaks that are detrimental to asphalt surfaces. The sealer is an asphalt based emulsion that can be fortified with latex rubber additives and sand. Its application will significantly slow the natural degradation of your pavement.
Pavement management system
Your asphalt investment begins deteriorating immediately after installation. Contributing factors include weather elements, traffic patterns, landscaping, oil contamination and ultraviolet exposure. In addition to potential legal liability, an unsightly parking lot is a direct reflection of the business owner.
Structurally failed asphalt allows water penetration and contributes to eventual potholes. Ultra violet light (the sun) and water can deteriorate binders in the asphalt surface that will allow the finer particles (sand) to loosen up and wash off leaving the larger rocks behind. A severely deteriorated surface can look like the inside of an English muffin. When the surface gets to this point it is only a matter of time and you will have cracking and a failed area.
|Structurally failed asphalt allows water penetration and contributes to eventual potholes. The first step in improving and protecting your asphalt investment is repairing areas.||Installation and compaction of hot asphalt to complete repair of damaged area.|
|Correct preparation of the asphalt surface is imperative to ensure the desired finish. Heating and removal of excess oil found in parking stalls.||Crack greater than 1/4” width being filled with Flex Crack or hot pour crack filler.|
The premise of our PAVEMENT MANAGEMENT SYSTEM is a simple one - maintain your asphalt investment with pennies today, or rebuild it with dollars tomorrow. We specialize in addressing customers’ needs in a comprehensive, personal manner. We want to meet with you, inspect your properties, and help create a solution that remedies your specific needs.
|High pressure air blowers and industrial brooms are used to remove surface dirt and debris.||For large, dirty parking lots - use of water truck is recommended.|
|Edgework is most effectively completed using a hand squeegee or broom.||Machine application ensures a uniform surface and shortens lot closure time.|
All seal coating materials come from the manufacturer in a concentrated form, and some can be diluted at a rate of about 25 gallons of water maximum per 100 gallons of concentrated seal coat. However, unless you were a trained inspector you may never know the difference in a product that was 100 gallons of water mixed with 100 gallons of seal coat when it was applied to your pavement. It would still look black and you might think you had a seal coating job and got a deal. When in fact, you had been taken advantage of, and at best would have a product that would wear off very quickly. In many applications if ambient temperature is correct, the surface is relatively smooth and the sealer has ample time to dry, we can install the sealer with no dilution leaving you with more solids per sqft translating into increased wear ability and longevity.
|Machine applied pavement markings provide a crisp, straight appearance.||Fresh, new appearance.|
|Positive, first impression.||Renewed welcome mat.|
Here is where it all starts
A properly constructed and maintained asphalt driveway will probably last 20 to 30 years. “Properly constructed” is a big factor here. Unfortunately it’s often impossible to tell how well the driveway was constructed after the fact. One tip would be if areas hold significant amounts of water, improper grading usually means the contractor did not have the skills or did not spend the time making sure areas would drain properly. Many low bids are based on minimal subgrade preparation, baserock quantities and/ or asphalt thickness.
Whether you are building a road or parking lot from scratch the first step is prepare the subgrade. Once excess materials are removed the area must be finished graded, Correct drainage is crucial not only to the adjacent buildings but water cannot be allowed to stand on the asphalt, significant puddles will cause premature failure of the asphalt surface.
Compaction of sub soils is critical, any movement whether from nature or settling of soils will translate into a surface failure. Every project whether from scratch or resurfacing requires different techniques for preparation so ask lots of questions and feel good about the contractors experience before you make a decision.
Baserock thickness depends on the type of traffic or weight you expect to be having over the surface. When in question thicker is always better up to a certain point. Budget constraints are always a factor that can lead to an inadequate base and asphalt thickness. We strive to give you all the options we feel are required for your project.
The baserock thickness is always the first thing that is reduced to cut costs. Always have the companies bidding your job include not only the compacted thicknesses and square footages but also the baserock tonnages figured into your job.
Proper installation and compaction of the baserock section is crucial, inadequate density or thickness in the baserock can lead to cracking and settling in the asphalt. The phrase I have been dumping rock on my driveway for years, so why do I need more? Has been said many a time. The truth is the rock currently on your driveway may be adequate depending on quantity, age and thickness, but is it sufficient for stability, drainage and a leveling course under the asphalt?
Always remember the asphalt surface is only as good what is underneath it. Thin or used baserock can cause an uneven finish grade resulting in an uneven asphalt surface which usually means the asphalt will be thicker in some areas and thinner in others (the thin areas will be a future problem). Remember once it's paved you bought it for better or worse.
The installation of asphalt is probably the most specialized and difficult part of the job. Weather, ambient temperature and skill are all factors that can leave you with a high maintenance or low maintenance job.
Asphalt pavements are made up of stone (aggregate) fine stone or sand and asphalt cement. The asphalt cement is what gives the pavement its black appearance and is the “glue” that holds everything together. When combined in the proper amounts and heated to around 300 degrees it all comes together to form asphalt pavement.
Asphalt pavement is installed using different methods and thicknesses depending on the type of job. A typical driveway on flat ground should have a compacted asphalt thickness of no less than two inches. Steeper situations on hills or steep corners may require a thicker section of asphalt to prevent “stretching” or thin areas caused by the compaction process. Overlays or resurfacing typically require no less than 1 ½ inches after compaction of asphalt pavement. Factors that alter this can be surface roughness or grade and slope.
Chipseal is another type of surface that can be installed over asphalt, baserock or even over existing chipseal. As a maintenance procedure chipseal can be installed over worn asphalt or chipseal to provide a new wear surface. As a new surface chipseal can be installed over baserock providing the grades are less than 10% and you dont live in a snow prone area, preferably less than 2000 feet in elevation.
When chipseal is installed over baserock the preparation is very important, the baserock must have a tight surface and drainage that is no less than 4% (1/2 inch per foot) in any direction. Water cannot be allowed to stand or it will break down the road oil very rapidly leading to a surface failure. The finished baserock surface must be as smooth as possible because the chipseal will follow any high or low spots just like painting your car.
Chipseal used as a wear surface is very common. It is called a "chipseal overlay" whenever it is installed over existing chipseal or asphalt. City and county agency's use this as regular maintenance for many of the roads you drive on. Single layers are the most common but heavily worn roads can benefit from a double layer.
Chipseal is basically a layer of thick hot road oil with 5/16" to 3/8" crushed rock spread over it and then compacted into the oil. The oil hardens and retains the crushed rock to create a new wear surface. Chipseals done correctly are installed using an oil truck to spread the hot oil in front of a self propelled "Chipspreader" machine. If an overlay is being done a pneumatic rubber tired roller is used to compact or impregnate the rock into the oil.
The common mistakes made by some contractors are:
#1. Not installing the correct quantity of oil per square yard.
The spread rate of the oil varies depending on different road conditions but a qualified professional will spec and install the correct quantity for your specific needs. Always ask for the type of oil to be used, the spread rate (gallons per square yard) and always ask that this be listed on the contract.
When the rock or "chips" are installed it is important that when the chips are installed the rock is not allowed to roll into the oil. A chip box on the back of a truck will work but will not prevent this from happening also the chips will not be spread evenly and usually are installed thick to compensate for lack of accuracy, when it comes to chips in a chipseal thicker is not better!
A self propelled chipspreader will drop the chips into the oil from approx. six inches in height and prevent a rolling effect. A self propelled chipspreader will also install the chips in the correct proportions so loose chips will be kept to a minimum.
#2. Not using the correct equipment to compact the crushed rock "chips".
The compaction of the chips is the last step in a chipseal job. When chipseal is installed over baserock a steel drum roller is used but when an overlay is done over a hard surface a pneumatic "rubber tired" roller is used. It is important to get the chips impregnated into the oil especially in the low spots. The individual rubber tires will push into the low areas and not "crush" the chips on the high spots leaving a more uniform densely compacted surface.
The final step is to sweep off any loose chips approx. three to five days after the initial chipseal. Loose rock allowed to sit on top of the road surface will grind into the bonded rock loosening it up and causing premature surface wear.
Chipseals done right using the correct quantity of oil and type of equipment will last for years at a fraction of the cost of asphalt.
Always choose a contractor with the right equipment and skills to do the job right the first time.